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West /An-Tir War Hero's Cloak

Square Cloak

AKA: Feldr or Sagum

 

I had so much fun making this that I've volunteered to do the West/An Tir War Cloak for 2012!

I surprised my Laurel, but I got way too excited about the project.  I've got 2 years to do it too!  She had just approved it and I jumped in without consult.  oops!  but it's all good.         6-19-10

The War cloak is presented by the King of the West to an outstanding An-Tir combatant who excels in prowess and chivalry on the War Field.

I found out that it is only given to a Knight as it is thought they appreciate the arts as well as combat.

It is unclear how a person is picked, but all the former Cloak recipients have their input on who should have the cloak

Materials

 

2.5 yds 59" wide 100% linen IL-19 (fabric-store.com)  This is just the right amount to make the lining and the trim on the front.  Two Colors:

Red linen for lining

Gold linen for accent color around Ravens (donated by Mistress Aurelia)

Black Felt 100% wool for Ravens (donated by Duchess Catherine Lorraine)

3 cones of 100% linen yarn for trim

100% Wool:  66" long x 60"  14-17 oz weight

stripe of 100% camel wool

Design Thoughts

 

So the pin will be made with ravens.  that's OK and it will be sterling silver

Neither of these birds are correct.  Still hunting for a good bird design.

Odin has 2 birds

Thought and Memory

 

Wool will be brown or green heavy weight I'll  get about 2.5 yards.

Ordered 3 yards from Oxford Mill End Fabrics based on Catherine's recommendation.  It's a green with a bit a blue but not too teal. 

 

Will use a dark blue linen (suiting weight) for the lining I have a ton of it, in stash.  (Nixed this linen when it clashed with the wool color)

5-1-11 At Beltaine gave Mistress Blackheart $75.00 to purchase the silver for the Pin

Later sent her $50.00 plus 2 oz of sterling silver ingots as a Thank You.

My cloak is:  64.5    x 47

Final measurments: 58.5" x 46"

The last cloak was made 60" x 36"

So I'm good with the red linen that I want to use.  This cloak will be 60" x 45 (see above for finals)

  This cloak will be the same.  It fits my husband just fine and he is 6' 1".

war cloak colors

The green is good, but the red looks pink and I can't seem to adjust it so you can see the red.

DMC colors are: 

347 a dull tomato red: ..

730 an olive green: ..

920 a rust orange: .

Blue: .

orange: .

white: .

embroidery colors

deisgn

Here is an idea of what the cloak will look like. There will be more colors that shown here and I don't know exactly what embroidery stitches I'll be doing.

Motto fits nicely
'Out of adversity Good things come'

6-7-11

The Ravens will be black wool but I need to figure out what colors they should be.

The Raven Design  after looking this for a while, I think I'll change the beak of the raven to make it more Anglo Saxon.

 

The lining

stripe sewn 6-7-11

Need to put this aside for a bit.  Must make another project and get the threads for this one before I can continue.

 

So I have 3 skeins of each color in Pearl #5  It's probably not enough thread for this project, but it's a start.

10-19-11

Basted the seams of the linen lining of the cloak.  Using #5 DMC color 926 for the color and will make a running stitch up the seams

 

10-26-11 Today I had a design breakthrough.  Odin had 2 ravens that sit on his shoulder. 

When the cloak is worn 2 ravens will sit on the shoulders of the werer..so that is too cool!

Brooch is finished and photo is to the left.  It's Sterling Silver

Thought & Memory:  above photo

The Ravens will be on gold linen then black felt wool and applique down with embroidery

The orange stripes will be tablet weaving

Runes of Protection will go down the spine of the cloak

Flipped the birds round.  This way when the cloak is worn the birds will face each other.

 

I'll need to make 4 tablet woven bands 50" long and I'll do an Anglo Saxon Design I've been thinking about.

The lining is finished!
So I have the camel wool strip set in today.  10-28-11 This is the final design...only about 9 or 10 revisions
I know how to proceed:  I'll trace the pattern of each Raven onto tissue paper and then stitch the design onto black felt.  Each Raven will be embroidered then when they are done they will be applique down onto the gold linen and then onto the green wool. 11-08-11

Ravens are all traced out as well as the demi-sun and the lion.

Ironed all the wrinkles out of the black felt.

Got the design pinned to the black felt.  Now to stitch the design down using sewing thread.

After talking to my Laurel, I'm going to try backing the felt with stabilizer then embroider the birds.

Next the gold linen will be cut larger than the birds and couched down.

Finally it will all be sewn to the wool.

I need to make one more design element and I'll be done with the design portion of the cloak.

 

11-09-11 

11-27-11  Any!  I started the embroidery.  I think I just had to get over my fear, but it's going OK

Doing all the outlines in stem stitch.  The basic outline I'll do in blanket once it goes down onto the linen.

Every few stitches I remove the basting threads then embroider up to that point and start over.

  progress after 16 hours
   done about 25 hrs onto the next worked about 6 hrs on bird #2

So this is how I'm going to attach the birds to the cloak.

felt is sewn to linen

linen is sewn to wool

couched

  12-06-11

12 hrs total

worked on this raven today:  17 hrs total on 12-07-11

finished:  22 hrs 12-08-11

 

Now I'll cut out around the ravens and attach the felt to the linen.  It's important to keep the felt very flat, so I don't get any puckers in the linen.

Cut out and on the gold linen.  Will stitch down and embroider over the edge. 

 

  Done  12-009-11

These would make great banners just the way they are right now!

still need to do the blanket stitch around. Boy that takes a lot more time than I thought it would...one down  Yay 2nd one done                                                                                       12-11-11

Trim up the linen and main wool to size, make sure there is enough room around the Ravens and space for the Runes  

Embroider the Lion and Demi Sun and the shield boss  on the main wool

Demi Sun done today base stitch & embroider  4 hrs 

Got the Lion base-stitched on the wool  2 hrs

Also aligned the linen with the wool to make sure they align  2 hrs

 

12-12-11

     done 1-18-12

Embroider the Dragon with protection runes

first I traced the design onto the wool

Ravens: cut out the linen and stitch that down on the wool.  done 2-1-12  (time 16 hrs) I do have enough time to make the bands out of TW by my goal date, I'll make the design with the colors on the spools shown in the photo above.
Place Ravens then embroider names on the wool under each one (time 4 hours)  

Attach the TW or Inkle (whichever I have time for)  Done. 2-1-12

Wove up this tablet woven band for the cloak. It's an original design.  I'm only going to make the 2 bands not 4 as I originally drew up due to my deadline.  Still I don't think it need the 4 and I like it this way better.    1-24-12 (weaving time 15 hrs)

Embroider name to lining

1-31-12

I had my DH try the war cloak on and OMG!  The bird just didn't look good while on a body.

I'm so glad that nothing was sewn down except the center pieces.  Moved the Tablet Weaving to the outside and staggered the birds and swapped them in location.

 

2-1-12  Spend all day getting the TW trim down in a straight line.  It's not perfect but close enough.  The birds have been basted down and I'm now about half way around the large Raven (Memory)  Looks like I will not be finished this week, but I should be close.  Not only do I have to embroider around the linen, but still have the words in runes and I'm going to tack down the seam allowances on the center seams.  (8 hours)

 

Birds are sewn down and the edges of the linen are turned under. Ready for Green & Red embroidery.     2-2-12  

Got the Runes made and transferred onto the wool, one took 2 tries when I saw that I got it crooked.  Got Memory almost embroidered.

I wrapped the thread of the Demi Sun in green to make the embroidery pop a little bit more (thanks to my Laurel for that suggestion)

Estimate that I may still have about a week's worth to do to finish

2-3-12

To Do:

Embroider Runes  Done 2-4-12

Embroider the outside of the linen around birds Done 2-4-12

Embroider the central seams (Ecru & Green w/tiger tape) 1 .5 seams Done 2-7-12 and I hate Tiger Tape.  Done 2-8-12

Attach the lining (embroider: 'Jocelyn made me AS XLVII Done 2-9-12')

Embroider blanket stitch all round the edges

 

I tried to watch the new Spartacus: Vengeance

It was hard, the new actor is close, but I miss Andy in that role.  RIP Andy you are missed. (about 1 hr)

2-10-12 The final assembly is all that is left, but I am going away for the weekend, so it will have to wait.

All embroidery is completed on the cloak!  Yay!!  2-8-12 (about 12 hours for the 4 seams)

All embroidery on the linen lining is done as well.  I made it Ninja, same color threads on background.

went out to the garage today and pinned the lining to the wool.  I'm hanging it off the loom with the hope that the lining will stretch and I can then sew it up tomorrow.                      2-14-12 Happy Valentines!

Got to sewing the main seams around the outside to attach the lining to the wool.  Both are slippery suckers and I want the lining to lie flat without puckers which is proving harder to do than what you would think...arg!

So I sew the top seam and I had both the sides pinned.  Got puckers, un pinned and pulled lining and re pinned. re pinned... re pinned and re pinned....OK I give up and sewed it down: 

Done 2-15-12

DMC color: 920 to do the blanket stitch . Used the whole skein going round the edge.  All Done today I had 22" left from the skein.  2-15-12  10:50pm

Here are the words that went with the cloak.

4-9-12  I took black thread and needle and stitched the felt to the wool. The Birds were only attached via the linen which was not heavy enough.  Now the ravens as an element are part of the cloak and move better with the wool.

I'll present the cloak at A & S in June 2012!

6-16-12 Presented the Cloak to their Majesties Havoc & Mina.  I hope that the person who receives the cloak and pin appreciate all the hard work that went into this project.

I would do it again, just not right away.  I had a lot of creative fun with it.

Cloak was given out today to Rodrigo, doesn't sound very Norse.  I hope he likes a Norse Cloak.

He looks happy in it though.

West An Tir War Cloak Recipient

The hero of the war, the award for the best member on the field was awarded to one of our own(An Tir), Sir Rodrigo

 

 

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