Adventures in the SCA - 3 Green Dresses
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A New Gown

Big Skirt Norman?

  Big Sleeves, V neck, Big Skirt.

I

Norman

Gown

or in the French a

Bliaut

Dark Green linen 4 yds 28" pre washed x 58"

Brown/Olive Green linen 1yd for trim

2 large and 2 small trims for decorations (handmade by me)

Start: 4-21-10 cut out with emphasis on skirt.  Sleeves will not be over large but bell shaped. Must wait a day for the bias cuts to hang.  This skirt hem will be at least 180"

Gores are 47" long and 38" at bottom.

Key hole neckline with brown linen outline and inkle trim round.

1130 bliaut

So I've modified the sleeve a little with a new pattern I made up and here's to hope that it works out OK.

4-22-10

Preview of what the gown will look like.

-add trim to sleeves while flat.  4-26-10

-attach sleeve to body while all is open. 4-26-10

-attach gores to main body. 4-26-10

-hand sew arm trim and collar down. 4-26-10

-add small trim to arm bands  (done)

-add trim to lower sleeve   (done)

-sew lower seam sleeve, adjust the under arm area (adjust paper pattern to changes)  (done)

- put on a very long movie, and hand finish all the interior seam allowances.   (done)

medieval norman gown will be working on the interior seams for a bit, but this is the gown.  I plan to wear it for the class I'll be teaching at A & S on the introduction to inkle.  What better way than to show what can be done with it.

When I went to do the cuffs, I realized that you could see the machine sewing on the inside of the sleeve...can't have that.  Not after all the hard work of doing by hand all the seam allowances.  So I cut a 4" strip of white linen and attached it to the inside of the green linen.  The brown linen will fold over and hide this machine stitch and then the white will cover the machine stitching from the trim and I'll sew the white down by hand.  Absolutely no machine stitching will show!!  Even though It's taking longer to finish this dress and I am ready to have it done.  4.29.10

  5-6-10 still working on the interior hand finishing.   At least this will show on the lower sleeve and no machine stitches will be visible!

Have 1/2 hem done, today 5-6-10 and will finish it tomorrow. 5-7-10 Got all the trim on and hem finished 5-8-10

   wore the gown to A & S 2010, to show the applications of Inkle on a Norman gown.   6-12-10

 

Must remember to wear my heels with this dress.  The hem is a bit long.

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Underdress:  lightweight green linen 3 yds  in 2 sections (1yd + 2Yrs)

I only have gusset seams and the sleeve seam allowances oh yes, and the neck facing.  I do know that I don't want to squeeze out a tunic from 3 broken pieces of fabric.  Maybe if it was one piece..but it is so much easier with 4 yards.

Start: 4-19-10

Finish 4-20-10 (going out to lunch, but I would get it finished..will let you know) tech. done 4-21-10

All sewn.

I still don't know what style I'll make yet.  4-1-10 I want a large swirly skirt for dancing.  I tried making a half circle skirt but the majority of the fabric is at the sides and hung so strangely that I will not do that.  I'll make large gores at least 3: 1 back and 2 side.
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II

Sideless

Cote

4_13_10

sidless cote I have to hem it and sew the trim around the neckline.

Surcote or Cyclas

1281 alfonso manuscript

circa: 1281

Wore this along with the oatmeal underdress to Friday Night Beltane.  No photos, it was soooo comfy.

wore my overcoat with the new lirpipe hat and I was tosty with gloves.  Temps got into the 40's.

So this is like a cyclas I made in 2008 and I've never worn the blue one yet. 

This is very comfortable!

cyclas  cyclas

photos above taken at October Crown 2010

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Oatmeal Underdress

I've got some oatmeal linen and will make an under dress like the brown one shown in the photo above.

3 yds 32" almost 4 yards x 56" . from my Laurel, Catherine.

I'll make the sleeves a bit overlong, so they scrunch, which is the period look.

started 4-14-10 in the afternoon. Used most of the fabric

finished 4-18-10

neck facing

almost done, but cannot finish today...hands are tired.   Only one long seam to finish and the hem (tomorrow)

   
  more than 10 hours of hand finishing and still not done.  Watched the complete Season 1 of The Tudors.  I still want to add some trim around the cuffs and neckline as well..yikes more hand work!  All done
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III Italian from Florence

   Early 1500's

  dyed white linen to green with Rite 2 boxes

100% linen,  about 5.5 yards.

What to make with this???

Another Italian this time with sleeves! Florentine 16th Century

5yds 22" of green linen

1yd of blue linen (bodice lining)

Side lacing

Skirts will be unlined.

Most people have cats that sit on their fabric, but I have an 80 lbs. big puppy! I cut out the bodice and lining for the bodice today.   5-12-10
1510 florance 1510   1507  I love the colors on this dress & sleeves.  Nice blackwork on the Camica
florantine

bodice has at least one line of trim

Sleeves are tie on and have a pretty large sleeve head and taper to wrist

Belt and or apron

1500 - 1510 time frame

 

1505  
skirt-pattern

Skirts based on Juan DeAlcega's pattern.  cut out 5-13-10

This is just the back piece, there is a front piece as well

Corded Bodice

hemp cords

I think I'll cord the bodice and layout some trim as well on it.  Found some hemp cording that I bought June-21-05 and I'm washing it in hot water and I'll toss it in the dryer.  The whole ball! 

omg, what a tangle the ball just fell apart. I was just Mush!  I cut some of the hemp off and tossed it in the dryer, the rest of it I'll air dry.

If I do this again.  I'd use the hemp and place it in the channels and twill FIRST...then Wash!

Used two pieces of twill to make a mini corset, which will go between the fashion fabric of linen.  I may need to pad to keep the bumps from showing. Check out this dress.  It's a nice site if you haven't checked it out.  And there is this dress diary too.
corded bodice piece So I'm making an inner corded layer of 2 pieces of white twill.  I'm only going to cord the front, can't see the advantage of doing the back.
The back Italian bodice The front without the skirt   5-13-10
  I need to figure out what trim to add to the bodice and the skirt.  Added a back panel to the back skirt since I had extra fabric.
  so I sewed up the neck area today and attached the front skirt  5-18-10
  OMG I'm so stupid...forgot to add the trim while the bodice was flat (too late now)  I tried to get some grossgrain ribbon around the neckline.  I'd like something along the hem line too.  Will just have to see on that one.
5-19-10 So now I'm pleating the back skirt onto the back bodice....more than once! I pulled out the hem lining, it was too heavy was was causing the neckline to go wonky.  If I want hemp, I'll have to make it a seperate piece.  I've spent two days on this dress and I'm not getting anywhere. Everything I do, I have to pull out and re-do.  Very frustrating.
I did wash and dry the fabric for the sleeves.  Fustan in brown and one in purple.
attaching trim bodice back from the inside
bodice front trim bodice front from the inside
fitting the dress  

I did get frustrated and sewed up the side seams, so I just slip this over my head.  I don't have a women to lace me in and I can get dressed by myself this way.

Sorry I just have my T-Shirt on rather than the Chemise.

Dress done  5-20-10
Sleeves

The sleeves are tie on and I'll make mine reversable.  Done 5-21-10 11:00am

I just could not let it go after a day which I didn't get anything accomplished. So I did the sleeves over severalt imes since I was getting the left sleeve mixed up with the right . 

Sewed the ends together and made a nice muff!  Took it apart and did jut the tops of the sleeves, turned them right side out and handsewed the cuffs.

I used my green & black Inkle for the shoulder ties.

Sew lacing rings on the bodice of the dress.

1 yard of Purple and 1 yard of brown Fustain with a small vertical stripe pattern on both. Marked the Right sleeve with a small white threaded knot.
I was sewing the morning of the event, but I did get the last stitch in and went to the event in a new gown.  Had much fun.  

I was comfortable during the day with the temps not going over 70.  Dancing was good, but the skirt was a little long in the back and I had to pick it up to go backwards in the dance (no biggie) 

The bodice needs to be adjusted a little.  It should be even shorter in the back and the straps should be angled in a bit more.  Even though the straps did not silp off, they felt like they could have.

Investiture Feast
May 21st, 2010
St. Marks

DAY BOARD / SOUP KITCHEN MENU

* Leek-Oatmeal Soup
vegan
nut product (almond milk)
* Beef-Barley Soup
* Bread
* Water

FEAST

Late Period (Mostly) English

First Course
Set out immediately prior to seating

* Steamed Artichokes
* Seasonal Fruit: strawberries
* Nuts: walnuts
* Cheeses: cinimmon cheese & ginger cheese (like cream cheese cinimmon best)
* Breads: one loaf cut up
* May Eggs: hard boilded eggs

Sauce Robert: excellent warm butter w/ capers and vinigar

Second Course
Presentation to Head Table followed by Family Style serving to hall

* Sausage (well done and tasty) Served with pear mustard (didn't like) and pink honey mustard (real good)
* Herb Torte (Spinach torte, rather dry to my taste)
-vegetarian (eggs, milk, greens, herbs)
* Steamed Vegetables Boiled were served and very colorful
- beets, parsnips, carrots, currents

* Preserves (not served)
-candied fruits and flowers (not served)

Entremet
Presentation to Head Table followed by Family Style serving to hall

* Rosewater Jelly (individual servings) milky jelly and tasty
* Sliced citrus fruits Gingered & pectin (didn't like)

Third Course
Presentation to Head Table followed by Family Style serving to hall

* Salmon in pastry (over cooked at our table, but tasted OK)
-pescatarian
-butter (not lard) pastry
* Chicken Capon, very little served up and I only got one piece, jucy though
* Bulgur wheat (not served)

Endives and periwinkles (no flowers in our salad)

 

Entremet
Presentation to Head Table followed by Family Style serving to hall

* Lemon sorbet (individual servings) (not served)

Fourth Course

* Marzipan fruits (stars and balls: this tasted OK)
* Baked pudding after the Italian Fashion (didn't get a taste)

So I did dance with my Florentine and had much fun.  Two photo show that the back is too low and of course the shoulder strap must be adjusted.  That is the shoulder that was broken a while back, but I think the problem was my tailoring skills. 

 

Sideless Surcote or Cyclas

material

 

It's the End of the year and I'm going to see if I can make a Sideless Cote before the end of 2010.  Just like the Green One I made in april.

        12-27-10

Let's see how much I can do in a day.  I have to cut out the Harry Potter costume as well today.

Got the Cyclas cut. Now must wait 24 hrs at least. 

12-28-10

pattern plate   Several of these cotes or cycles can be found in manuscripts  plate 17
poo..forgot I have to let the fabric hang for a day to stretch the bias cuts out.  Oh Well! 12-29-10  will do sewing today.  Using french seams on the long seams and regular seams at the shoulders.

Sewed a little today.  Attached 1/2 gore to the base body on each side (total of 4)  Cut out a hole for the neck.  12-30-10

 

12-31-10

facing

start of neck I need to think what type of neckline to make.  Making a template of the neckline which I want to scoop (it's period afterall)  Got 3 of the french seams done. 

Will finish the final seam today and put on the facing for the neckline.  Just have to do the final seam along the sides and will just have heming to do.

Happy New Year!

12-31-10

facing sewn neckline All sewn and the finish the facing inside.
neck finished

2:24pm  neckline done.

french seam the side seams.  Made a point at the top of the gores.  done 3:15pm

hem the arm holes by hand:  done 4:45pm

Hem by hand:  done 7:30pm

cyclas

7:42pm Completed

 

12-31-10

   

 

 

 

 

 
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