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June Crown 2008

I'm going with Catherine & Isela to June Crown along with about 10 others.  It will be a very large group.  One (a woman whom I've not yet met) is being raised up to Laurel or Pelican, don't know who or which, but there will be a vigil that night.  

Faelan will be fighting for me.  Should he win, once again I have the chance of being a Queen.  He has not had any fights since coronet because he has to heal.  It is unlikely he would win, but it's a possibility (sorta like the lottery in odds I'd say)  Anyway we will have a big camp with everyone being there.

Write up of the Day

White Linen Kirtle
7 Yards of white 100% Linen  54" wide

Additional embroidery for the Yellow Linen Kirtle.



I am having issues on the style of Kirtle.  It's going to be very very hot.  I'd like to make a more form fitting kirtle, but  I'll get too hot.  So I'll make one with lots of ease built into it.


I've got the fabric all laid out on the floor.  I just have to find the time to measure and cut.  I think I'll need an over-gown as well.  My blue one has seen much activity.
OK, I have a plan.  White kirtle with scoop neck and over a T-Tunic made out of the striped 100% linen (green & tan)

Tunic will be short wide sleeves and short length.  Key hole neckline.  I only have 3.25 yards of this at 49"  That will determine how long the sleeves and hem line will be.

Washing the material in hot water & detergent, then I'll dry it in the dryer.

For some very odd reason the yellow kirtle shrank up on me.  I'm sure I'd pre treated the fabric before I cut it.


I'll use the same pattern as used in Faelan's Tunic.  The gores abut the underarm sleeve area.  No need for arm gussets and I don't have to worry about the strip pattern....that is unless I don't have enough fabric.  I think this is the very first time I've had to deal with a pattern.  I took the last of the fabric, so there is no more at the store.
Found in the book by Iris Brooke called English Costume of the Early Middle Ages 10th to the 13th Centuries, which has a sleeveless outer tunic.  If I don't have enough fabric I'll make this and it will be cooler on hot days.  It's the lady who is the only lady on the page.  Since she has a coronet, she must be nobility.   Brooke sites her sources from the British Museum manuscripts.
I was able to cut out all the pieces of the white linen, today.  Two gores will be one piece and two gores will be a two piece gore. I am using french seams to sew the gore pieces together and they are hanging.  5_10_08

In total I used up 3yards & 11" to make up the White Kirtle

Here are the pattern pieces for the sleeves (2) and gussets (2)

I finished the edges on all 4 sides of the gussets.  I sewed the sleeves to the main body.

Cut 2 gores as full triangles (front & back), then cut the side gores as two pieces each.  Sewed up the center seam using a french seam.  The french seam will be the central seam down the side of the kirtle.  Sewed each side gore to the front body piece.  Then I hand sewed the seam allowances.  Only got one done tonight.  They are very long seams.

So my method is to machine sew a seam, them immediately hand sew the seam allowances.  The inside of this gown should be just a nice as the outside.

That's the goal anyway.                                                 5_12_08

I'm using single thread cotton, for the seam allowances
Photo of the seam of the shoulder, outside
view of the seam from the outside (one of the gores)
without the flash from the outside

Progress of the kirtle so far.  The body is cut as one piece and the neck area has not been cut out yet, since I don't know which style I want just yet.

The kirtle is inside out and I don't have enough room to spread out the back side of the body.  (It looks like a bit of a head right now but it's really the back)

it's taking a while to finish these long seams.  I still have to add the front and back gores.  I'm pretty sure this will fit, I sure hope so.  I can't try it on till I cut out a neckline and I still don't know which one to do.                                                                  5_14_08

Getting those pesky gore tops in.   Made a How To Page for Gores.

It's a long 3 day weekend for me and I've done a lot of hand sewing.  I cut out the neckline and did a 1/4 inch rolled neck hem.  I made two large gussets for the underarms and then decided to go with the smaller ones.   The fit looked so much better...more fitted.  It looks like the front gore is a bit too short!  Yikes, How did I manage that mistake?  I guess it's a good thing that this will be an undergarment.

I sewed the sleeves and the side seams up to the top of the side gores.  It fits a bit snug around the waist area and I may have to add a side piece.  Will have to see.

All the seams are finished by hand.  This smock has a lot of work for something so plain. I pinned in these large gussets and yuck!  It made this already plain kirtle look shabby...back to the small gussets.


This came up on the SCA garb lj, I don't watch where I cut the armhole gusset.  I guess I've always managed to cut it on the straight on the grain either direction it make no difference since I use the Kite Shape Gusset.  My gussets have always provided me with plenty of stretch.

Off Topic


Found for $3.00 at a yard sale yesterday.  I've been looking at these baskets since 12th night.  At each SCA event that had merchants but at $35.00 to $40.00 I just couldn't see buying one.  My luck paid off!   It's in great shape and I can use it for camping.

hand sewn
OK, I've finished the body of the gown and now the hem is left.  Here is the issue, It's short. quite a bit on the center an inch off the ground and it's not hemmed.  Must get creative again if I want to wear this with my blue surcote.
Somehow I must add some because I hate short gowns.  OK, fixed the problem.  I cut 3 strips of 5" wide linen and french seamed them together.  Starting at the side gore, I sewed the strip all the way around the bottom of the skirt.  Ironed the seam downward.  I will then pin the extra length upward and hide the seam on the inside.   6_01_08

Even though the linen I'm using is at least a 5 oz, it's see through.  I really like the fabric pooling, but alas it's not very practical for walking around the Erik and especially for the porta potties or toilet areas.  I'm going to have to hem it up...bummer.

I'm very tempted...

Blue Linen Surcote or Cyclas

OK, I'm going to make a sideless surcote (?) out of the striped linen.  It will be way cooler.  It's period as well.  Here is the queen out with her hounds.  I'd love to be able to duplicate the hair as well.  I'm going to experiment.

The white kirtle will be just fine for this dress.

1281  ish.                                                                                                                  5_16_08

"A fashionably dressed lady, possibly the Queen of England, out hunting with her hounds.  She offer proof that fashion has nothing to do with being practical - she presumably has to deal with her hounds, despite her elaborate headdress and trailing skirts. (Alphonso Psalter, England, c1281-4: British Library, Add. ms24686, f. 13v, bas-de-page)  Page 70-71 from Medieval Dress & Fashion by Margaret Scott

Found in my stash, some light blue embroidered linen.  This looks like a better material to use than the stripe linen.                5_17_08

54" wide

3Yards 19" Total

Not a period pattern, but it's more summer to my (modern) eye.  Cooler  even though I may line it with white linen.

Here is a non period pattern for a surcote.  It's a nice pattern for a beginner

By Branwvn Folsom

If you can get your hands on "The Medieval Taylor's Assistant" by Sarah Thursfield and you want to make clothes from 1200 to 1500, this is a great book of patterns, but expensive.

After looking at this pattern and checking out Jean Hunnisett's book as well, the pattern is almost the same as my Eowyn Refugee!  I don't have to re-invent the wheel.  The neckline is a little different and the shoulder treatment is again a little different, rather than two pieces the pattern calls for one.
I laid the dress over my fabric
Cut it out.  I made it a little bigger than before as you can see at the waist.
All that is left.  I used most of it, so not much waste.
I cut out one front.  Two pieces for the back and used one of the left over pieces for a godet in the back.
Progress photo of the back godet (gore) top.  Still have to finish the seam.
Progress shot (no sewing) just the cut pieces.
(Progress shot) I think it will be long enough
I need to think how to do the neckline.  I'd like a little of the white gown to show.  I don't think that is period, but I like the look.

I have to think on what to do with the sides. Open & Laced or Closed?  I'll have more control on fit if I lace them, again, it's not the right period.  I'd be combining eras...

It's starting to come together                                                                                   5_26_08

What's Left to do.

June Crown Dress (5-26-08)

  • closure on white kirtle
  • hem on white kirtle sleeves
  • hem white kirtle
  • finish blue surcote armholes
  • hem
  • close skirt
  • lacing rings or add a small strip of material
Surcote Neckline
A modified neckline, so the white kirtle shows.
The Cyclas

The side seams are not sewn yet.  Tried it on and if I sew up the sides it will fit, but there is hardly any ease.  If I add ease it will be baggy, but for a hot day that's what I'll be most comfortable in.

I'll cut out some strips from the little fabric that I have left and add it to the side seams.

Cut out the strips today, one for each side.  It will add 2" total to the waist area and give the Cyclas (Surcote) lots of ease.                                                            5_28_08
I got one side done this evening.  With luck tomorrow I can finish up the other side tomorrow.  I did the whole thing in french seams, so no finishing by hand.     5_28_08
Here is a view of the back.  The gore is good, but it looks like it's pulling quite  bit on the seam.  This is a very light weight linen.  It may not show when being worn by me as I fill out the dress a lot more that my dress form.
The Right side has been sewn and you can see the shaping.  Left side is yet to go.
creative seams

I surprised myself today by avoiding spending money at a yarn shop that was going out of business (I was so very tempted though), didn't find any 100% linen or any color of green in linen that tickled my fancy at Joann Fabrics (had a 40% off coupon too), and I sewed up the Left side of the Cyclas and still had time to go to a friends party.

Oh, yes, got the seams sewn on the white kirtle and the sleeve hems as well

A very productive day!


Blue Linen Cyclas

Progress Photo:

  • armhole finish
  • hem  only back to finish (6_16_08)
  • hem finished this day

Finished the armhole on the cyclas with cotton twill tape.

I only have to hem both white & blue linen gowns now.


I have to stuff Mimi to have her reflect my bust size, she's about 2" too small right now and that will effect the hem height.  I'll also double check the height.

a experiment with ribbon

  completed 6-16-08
1st attempt
  I need some kind of netting for the hair.


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