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Twelth Night 2010

12th Night Overdress

Picante Rust 100% Linen 6.875 yds. from JoAnn's with black bands of trim.

10yards of 100% black linen.  This will be the lining.

The muslin for this dress is going nicely...but I've used almost all of the 7.5 yards and I only have 6.875 yards of the rust.  Looks like I will have to purchase some linen....I really didn't want to do that.  The only think would be to add more black linen strips to the dress....and I still need to find lining for the sleeves and bodice.

The Overdress

Once more a change in design.  Here is my inspriation.








Original Design Sketch.  The design is very Norman Period.  11th Century England.  The belt would have been double wrapped around and the V neck would be higher.


Now to work on the pattern


Closure will not be the buttons in the front.  I think I'll do side lacing.
  Design Sketch #2

I can make and dress out of 5 yds of 53" width linen with standard sleeves.  If I make those darn bell sleeves, I need another 3 yards of fabric.  I like the sleeves to be long almost to the floor.  I don't have enough linen in the rust...must make some design changes.

Here is an Idea, I think it will make up the difference and I have 10 yards of black linen.



2nd design



9_24_09  OK Another Design Change.  I'm going to make the sleeves different.  

10_30_09 I cut out the fabric & lining for the bodice & sleeves

I put the finished band on the sleeve and it will be a perfect fit..yay!

The sleeves are made in two pieces.  The bands will hide the join.

Another design change, no closures, it will be slip over the head.
I put the undergown on so that I'd get a better idea of what everything will look like.
I'm making a full circle skirt just cause. So I cut out 4 panels.  This is the thing though, you must use the positive pattern not the negative to get the exact panels.  I didn't do that as shown above and....
Oops..this looks OK, but the back was way too short! So I switched the panels and it will be shorter in the front.  I think I'll make it much more shorter, so the brown undergown will show.
So Another Revision
Will let the skirt panels hang for a day to stretch the bias.  There is a lot of fabric on the sides of this dress.

I cut out 4 pieces of black linen for the neckline trim.  I'm going to sew some jewels to this neckline trim. Need some bling for 12th night.

I'll need to make a pin with the jewels to close the top of the brown undergown

Jewels for the Collar  
Still have to design the sleeves as well.  Not too much fabric left and it's a very odd shape. 11_2_09

Sewed the lining in and sewed the skirt to the lining.  Pinned the fabric and I'll have to hand sew that tomorrow.

I'm not liking what I'm seeing so far.  The front opening skirt will require an apron to hide the front opening of the skirt.  I'll use hook and eye, but it will still show the underdress I think.

I will never use this skirt pattern again.  It's a huge waste of fabric and too much weight on the side seams.  A circle skirt is fine for a 50's skirt but NOT for a norman.  Don't use the pattern by B. Folsom with a circle skirt.

If you do make a circle skirt, they are quite lovely, but they must be evenly distributed around the waist for a beautiful look.  Check out these dresses with a 1950s look.

I'm conflicted about the colors too.  I think I'd like a lighter color undertunic to provide some contrast.

So I may need to make another dress for 12th Night. 










I did start another dress Version II

I cut out black trim pieces for the neckline and hand sewed them on while watching ROME, a great series.

So when finished this dress will make a good camping dress.  Easy to get in and out of with the front opening.  But just not the design I wanted and it doesn't have the WOW factor for a 12th Night gown.

Version II is much more what I had in mind.

The underdress has been finished except the hem which I'll do once this Overdress is completed and I know which shoes I'll be wearing.  



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