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Simbelmyne's How To Page

 

Inserting a Gore

(without a central seam)

All the web sites I've combed through regarding gores usually says: They are EASY.  But, as a new sewer, they can be anything but.

I have these word for all new sewers, they do get easier, the more you do them.  They look daunting at first.

There are two types of gores:  Those's that fit into a seam and those that don't.  I will eventually have both, but since I am currently working on the later, it's the first one I'm documenting.

I hope this tutorial will help all NEWBIE sewers and perhaps help the more experienced as well.

If one is to follow the basic construction of Medieval Garments and even later periods, you will eventually have to insert a Gore.
 

The purpose of a gore is to add additional fabric.  For women's dress it is almost essential.  The gores let the body of the gown be fitted then flows outward to graceful lines of fabric.

 

You have cut your gores according to your pattern.

 

These two gores (one front & one back) are cut as one piece.

The height of the gore is determined by your pattern.  I like to have them start about waist height or a little lower.

gore next to the body
fold gore in half and place on body
mark the center of the body panel.  It's important to have your gore in the very center.
caulk a line up the center
The top of your gore, determines the top of the center cut.
Mark the top about 2" below the actual top of the gore piece
Pointing to the center mark
Here is the cut of the main body.

the sides are easy to pin & sew.  give your self 1/2 inch, seam allowance.  Sew from the bottom (hem) toward the top of each side.

Stop before you get to the very top.

I stopped about 2 - 3 inches before the very top of the cut.

Pin the top of the gore to the top of the cut.  See photo.

  Now the tricky part, like inserting a sleeve head.  You have to ease the top of the gore into the top of the cut and there is not allot of room
  As you hand sew, I used the backstitch seam, angle the seam allowance to almost nothing at the very top.  Take several stitches at this area.  The very top will be taking a lot of strain from the weight of the fabric.
  This method gives you a rounded top finish, which is period, and found in extant garments of the Middle Ages.
 
5_17_08

 

 

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