The End is in sight!
1_7_07 Spent a full day of cutting the velvet. I probably angst about it for at least 30minutes first. Was the nap right, was the pattern face up or down??? Finally my daughter said, "Mom, just cut it." I have just enough fabric, JUST. I don't have anything for cushion.
Finished all the cuts and I didn't screw up! I still must cut out a waistband for the underskirt and the lining for the overskirt in the back. I must find in the scraps enough material to do the yoke and make up some under sleeves. I must quilt the fabric first for the yoke. It will take two layers thank goodness it's small because I don't have anything left but scraps. This was literally cutting it too close. I'm glad I did the sleeves first they took up a lot of fabric and I felt they were the most important to have correct. The skirts can and are pieced with different fabrics. I'm going to line the back skirts because all the heavy material is in the front and I don't think the skirts will hang properly with all the weight there. The celedon silk, I think, will have to go for another project it's too lightweight. I'll use the rest of the taffeta where I can.
I cut the bodice with about 1/2 inch in the side seams for that "just in case" problem with fit.
I can understand why sewing people have cats, if they get excited and run across the fabric not much happens. Maybe a small claw mark, but when a 75 pound dog runs across your velvet, well, he leaves LARGE nail imprints in the velvet! I had to adjust the skirts so that the marks are in the back and I hope will not show too much in the folds...
It's only been a few days but the poly jacquard is stretching! I'll have to wait for at least 10 days to see. The velvet will probably stretch some too. I used up all the taffeta, so I'm going to use some material that my mother sent to me. I think it is silk, but it's green and it will go. I'm using it to line the last two panels of the underskirt. All the skirts will be lined. I'm debating on doing the bodice, I probably will since everything else will be.
Tonight I cut the final lining for the underskirt. I found some silk and washed it in hot and put it in the dryer. It lost all it's sheen and became more like raw silk in feel (not a bad thing). Final length was 2yds 7" by 52" wide. I cut the two back panels and then realized I had the two side panels to do as well. One panel is going to be pieced together since I ran out. And still not everything is cut. I have to do the Yoke pieces, quilt them and cut them and the undersleeve pieces to finish.
You can see from these photos that I didn't have much left after the skirts panels were cut. The fuzzy photo (last one) is what I'm going to use for Pockets! Yes, I'll have two pockets in the underskirt so that I can carry my car keys and money. I never have liked purses anyway..go pockets.
Made a change in the Yoke, I'm using pattern from Simplicity 9891. It uses much less fabric and I have sewing instructions. I'm going to finish the waist band for the underskirts today and with some luck will sew it up. Quilt and cut the yoke pattern out as well. I'm going to interface the collar and the waist band of the underskirt....now just the innersleeves to pattern.
OK, so that I won't have to go through what I did last night, and since I plan of doing at least 2 more dresses with bag lining sleeves this is how you sew them together:
Sewed the central panel and bag lined it. Sewed all the skirt panels together, sewed all the lining skirt panels together. Ripped out one side the left of the velvet to the jacquard lining (I had a ripple) Will have to wait to resew this seam. I've decided not to bag line the skirt. I'm very uncomfortable with my ability to make a nice straight seam all the way around. The lining will be attached only at the front seams and the attachment at the waist seam.
I'm not sure the bodice velvet will be able to handle the weight of the skirts. I think I will flat line the pieces with linen to make it stronger. I think this will prevent any stretching of the velvet. Remember, I had to cut cross grain so I will probably have more stretch in the fabric.
The overskirt on the left side was puckering, so I ripped out the seam and will have to sew it tonight. The right side was fine and I think it was due to the fact that the velvet side was down when sewn. The left had the jacquard side down and it is very slippery. I see now that when the fabric tends to ripple (even a very little bit) under the foot that is a very bad sign and I should STOP sewing and take a look. I now know, I'll have to at a minimum flip the fabric. When working with silk velvet many things will be different. I've not used it yet, but I did buy a walking stick to use with silk velvet.
On the advise or should I say approval of the LOTR Costume group on Yahoo, I'm flat lining the bodice with linen. It's light and strong. The bodice I think will need reinforcement because it will have about 5 yrds of velveteen and 5 yrds of lining hanging from it. I think I'll have to sew the skirts in with two rows of stitching to keep them on good and tight. Since there is a train (Yeah! Impractical, I know) There is a huge possibility that it will get stepped on, and I don't want to lose my skirts in the process.
I cut out the linen and pinned the skirt panel, so I'm ready for sewing, but it's almost 10pm and I'm tired.
Plan for tonight: sew skirt and flatline the bodice. This will have to be done after going to an open house tonight...oh well.
I was not able to finish when I wanted to, went with DH to a Open House for a bike store. I wanted to try on bike shoes there but all their shoes were in boxes! They were serving pizza as well...I had an iron will and did NOT have any pizza...thank you very much.
Back to the Green Dress... I cut some blue linen and flatlined the bodice. Pined the pieces inside out and sewed the seams up. I sewed the left panel of the Jacquard lining to the velvet...THREE TIMES! I don't know why, but the Jacquard and the Velvet were fighting and the velvet kept puckering. Since this panel is right in the front of the skirt, it just had to lay flat. So, remember, it's OK to rip out if you are not happy with the results. I am now trying to figure out how to sew the skirts to the bodice. It's not all that easy since I have velvet, lining (2 kinds) and the front panel. My muslin was not lined, so it went together fairly easy. Photos of the underskirt and the front panel which is bag lined.
Basted the front panel in three times. I raised the seam line in the front, took in the side seams of the bodice almost an inch. Neckline still needs work. Then I used a safety pin to try on the underskirt with the velvet and when getting it off, the pin ripped right through the taffeta..ACK What next!!! I don't know how to repair that problem. I may just have to make a velvet waistband for the skirt. It will just depend on how I feel. Right now I don't think I'm in the best mood to sew. So I updated the site and made a list. That makes me feel better. Somethings just cannot be rushed.
* hem (
OK, I stopped counting how often I ripped out the seams while attaching the skirts. But, it's done! I've pinned the trim on the neckline to see how I'll like the arrangement. I've taken the pieces of underskirt fabric and am quilting them first and that is very time consuming. I have to say that I really really love the Gutermann Metalic thread. It is vastly superior to the Sulky brand. The Gutermann's Cotton that I am using has also been better than anything else I've used before.
It took 2 movies and 2 evenings after work to quilt three pieces of fabric. (Ben Hur and Elizabeth & Essex were the movies) I've not even had a chance to try the gown on with the sleeves set.
1_27_07 This is the first try on of the dress. The Sleeves are basted in, but since they fit I'll sew them tomorrow. I have to work on the yoke and put the trim on. I think I will put a zipper in the back rather than lacing up the back. It's just easier to get into the dress.
The Gown fits comfortably but I was unhappy with the waist seam. After looking at the 1st fitting photos I decided to redo. The Right side has been done on these photos with a belt that I purchased at Target. I wish the stones were larger, but it will just have to make do for now. I still have to sew the left side of the seam, but I like what is happening on the right. I'll see what can be accomplished tonight. I finished it. I'm not going to fight with it anymore.
Tonight's plan is to sew the bias tap around the neckline, the bodice will then be ready to accept the trim.
Got the bias tap sewn to the neckline. Gathered the first layer of lace bullion trim on the neckline.
Goal for tomorrow night. Sew Trim on and cut out Yoke Pieces.
I cut out the yoke pieces and got 1 section of the trim sewn. Goal for tonight: Sew the Yoke and sew the 2nd trim piece down.
Worked on the yoke trim and put the zipper in, seems like it took most of the day for that little bit. Status photos
Must now work on the yoke pieces and the undersleeves. Just a few more things to do now. My list is growing smaller!
Working on the hem of the Underskirts right now.
The front of the bodice and the seams in the front are OK. I have only one wrinkle due to my bust size (which I hope will go down with my weight loss), so I'm not doing anything about that one. Blueberry somehow lost some height (must not have tightened the screws), so now she is too tall because I need to hem. The skirts are hanging once again, but the drape of the back of the skirts looks good to me. I'll have to trim the sides, they are too long right now.
I've got the zipper in for the final time. Made the undersleeves with the draw-sting tabs. Trimmed up the hem for sewing hem or bias tape. The skirts are rounded, so the bias tape would be best rather than a hem. Just the Yoke to do now. With good luck, this week...forgot to mention that I've tried it on with the zipper and it fits fine.
Photo of finished zipper. Blueberry is on a box, so that I can do the hem. Photos of the undersleeve in the making and the finals. I used bias tape for the tabs. No pattern I just did this on the fly with guesswork. These sleeves are lined with the blue linen and I'll put elastic at the elbows to keep it on or I may do snaps (poppers for those who are English).
Started work sewing the yoke pieces. With luck, this week.
I've finished the dress but for hems. I've got them pined and now just have to sew. I will machine the inner lining, but I'll have to hand sew the velvet. The original gown was bag lined, but I'm very glad that I did not do that since my jacquard likes to catch on things and I don't want to tear it up. The cotton velvet is much hardier material and can take more abuse and dragging.
Photos to follow.
I still have to hem and tidy up the threads, but I'm finished!
4_01_07 April Fools Day...but I did really finish the hems ...it was a lot of material to hem. Got the hook & eye done at the top of the zipper. Now I have to find a Rohan-ish setting for Final Photos.